Post by Tom on Apr 3, 2022 3:57:39 GMT -5
I've attempted to collect and explain the lingo surrounding our hobby to clarify popular terms to novice collectors or non-English speakers. I hope this is the best place to post this, please move if it isn't. If this is deemed helpful it would be a good idea to make it a 'sticky' thread to keep it visible.
If anyone has corrections or terms to add, please let me know so I can amend this posting.
Back door special
A term used to describe the practice of selling surplus, often quality control rejected models at bargain prices over the internet or through non-traditional channels. These can be a good source for budget conscious collectors or those looking for a base model for modifying. Take care to inspect for damage and/or missing parts before purchase.
Bare metal foil (BMF)
Thin self adhesive metallic foil that can be stuck onto parts and cut to shape to give a realistic chrome, gold or metal finish.
Blackwash
Using thinned paint in a dark colour to fill deeper areas in a casting, such as wheels, an intake or a grill. Suggests more depth than there actually is, making the casting more realistic. Usually done by applying the paint and wiping away the excess so that paint remains only in the lower sections.
_MG_3944b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Casting
Term for what constitutes the body of the car or a separate part thereof, usually cast in an alloy of aluminium, copper and zinc using a mould called 'die'. Often used to distinguish between several models too: 'they are different castings'.
Codes
Production codes are used to denote the version of a model. A Code 1 model is as released by the company that made it. Code 2 stands for models altered by the factory for a commercial party, usually in limited quantities or by a commercial party with full consent of the original maker. Alterations generally involve paint, decals and/or extra parts. Code 3 stands for models altered by collectors or builders in very small quantities, often only one single example. This is quite popular when it comes to race and rally cars or commercial vehicles. The original maker did not consent to the production of these models.
Some people distinguish between models made by someone for a collector or by the collector for himself by denoting these as Code 3 respectively Code 4.
Dealer edition (DE)
A model made for the manufacturer of the real car and sold (or given to buyers of the real cars) by its dealerships as a commercial tool. Usually differs from general release versions by use of branded packaging and different, authentic paint colours.
_MG_7688b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Decal
A sticker containing decoration of the model, often used on racing cars to construct the livery. Most common is the waterslide decal, which is applied by putting the decal sheet in water and waiting for the decal to detach itself. When the water evaporates and the decal dries on the model it conforms to the curves of the model and attaches firmly. These decals are however prone to yellowing after exposure to UV and cracking or flaking as a result of ageing.
To aid decals in adhering to complex shapes, to protect them and to dissolve old decals for replacement, several specialist products can be obtained.
Diecast
A term for metal models cast in a negative form. See casting. Done by taking a mould from a master model which is then in turn filled with molten metal. Also used as a collective term for scale models: 'I collect diecast'. Models made in resin are referred to as 'resin cast'.
Diorama
A recreation of a realistic or imagined, sometimes historic background intended to add realism to the model(s). It ranges from a small section of road to a building, a race track or a scrapheap. Sometimes models are modified or weathered to fit the scene. Figurines are sometimes used to add more 'life'.
_MG_3291b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Flash
Extraneous metal on a casting that is the result of molten metal running in between parts of the mould where they do not fit together perfectly. This is trimmed off manually by assembly workers before the model is painted. Remaining flash is generally a sign of low quality, worn moulds or failed quality control.
Figurine
A scale representation of a person or animal, used to increase realism in dioramas or models. There is an ongoing discussion about including figurines in open racing cars. Figurines are usually hand-painted, which makes them relatively expensive in relation to car models.
_MG_5227b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
General release model
A version of a model available to the public through specialist (online) shops, also known als hobby edition. This term is used to distinguish from specialist versions, such as dealer editions or limited editions made as gifts for sponsors of a racing team.
Injection moulding
Making plastic parts for models such as bumpers and steering wheels is generally done by injection moulding. Liquified hot plastic is injected into a mould, left to set and then removed from the mould for cleaning off the sprue, which is the term used for extraneous moulding residue.
Kerbside/Curbside model
A term used to describe a model with usually little or no detail underneath or inside and no opening features, intended to sit in a display or diorama and not to be picked up and studied. Usually the outside is detailed to a high level.
Kit
A model that has to be constructed from separate parts. Usually cast in white metal or resin, sometimes comes pre-painted. Kits are often made to issue specialist models with a more limited appeal of the subject than what is required for ready-made models. The smaller amount of finishing required makes it possible to produce small runs while keeping the product affordable, amortizing investments over a smaller number of models. Photo-etched parts are sometimes used to achieve fine detail. There are many small cottage industry-type firms active in kit production and their products' quality and realism varies greatly. Generally quite hard to build for novices.
_MG_5895b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
_MG_6617b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Licence/License
Cars and their logos are protected by copyright. A car manufacturer sells licences to model makers so they can legally reproduce the copyrighted items. The cost and negotiation involved are frequent subjects of discussion among collectors as they prevent models from being issued, determine the quality of the product or put a premium on model prices. Ferrari in particular and their licencing tactics are aggravating to collectors of their models.
Licencing/Licensing fees
The amounts paid to car makers by model makers so that they can legally produce models. For models of racing or rally cars, this might include the sponsors' logos and even the names of the driver and co-drivers. If there's a substantial sum involved and the number of projected sales (usually determined from preorders) is too low, this will actually prevent a model from being produced.
Livery
The appearance of (usually) a competition car, with its sponsor logos and team colours. Also used for trucks, vans and buses.
IMG_0124b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Masking
Temporarily covering parts of the model to avoid these parts being painted, used to create multicolour paintwork or liveries.
Master
A model maker creates this prototype to make the mould or die used to cast the model from. Sometimes the model is created in a larger scale than the end product to facilitate easier crafting, and scaled down by a computer which uses a router to produce the definitive master, from which the mould is made.
MIB
Short for Mint In Box, a description often used for auction sites to describe the model being in as-new condition in its original packaging. The Germans often use OVP (Originalverpackung) to denote the original box.
Mould marks
Older or cheaply-made moulds generally fit together less than perfectly or show wear from intensive use. This results in mould marks on the casting, lines that show the join between mould sections or extraneous metal ('flash'). Removing these properly is skilled manual work and remaining mould marks generally denote a cheap product. More common in toys than collectors models.
_MG_6542b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
MSRP
Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price, also known as RRP (Recommended Retail Price). Often the models are sold to collectors at prices below MSRP and only buying direct from the manufacturer involves paying MSRP.
Packaging
Collectors models are usually mounted on a plinth or base, then covered by a protective clear cover. A cardboard sleeve or outer box usually provides details of the manufacturer or make, often in turn protected from wear by a clear foil sheet. Cheap models are packaged in boxes that contain more models (the retailer takes the model out at the time of sale) or in simple plastic bubbles that you have to destroy to extract the model.
_MG_8043b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Partwork (PW)
A series of themed models sold by a specialised publisher. These models are released every couple of weeks and are either available from newsagents' or by subscription straight from the publisher. They are usually accompanied by a descriptive brochure. Some PW models are simplified versions of general release models and some are eventually made into general releases.
IMG_5108b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
People's Republic of China (PRC)
Up until the 1990s, most models were produced by European or American companies and produced locally. 'Made in Hong Kong', the non-communist section of China, generally stood for cheap low quality toys. Outsourcing high-quality production to China was pioneered by the German firm of Minichamps, who proved that it was possible to produce very realistic models for incredibly low prices. The Chinese government was just establishing the country's role in the global economy and, aided by the low wages, several production and assembly facilities cropped up. Even though Chinese wages have gone up considerably in recent years, they are still quite low and the accumulated skills and machinery still make China the default location for production.
Some European firms still firmly believe in producing locally as a sales tool, but instead their high prices limit sales and development of new castings.
Photo etching (PE)
A thin sheet of metal is exposed to UV light through a negative film which partially takes away a photosensitive layer that covers the metal. The exposed sections are then etched away in an acid bath, leaving the sections covered by the film. This enables you to make very accurate reproductions of chrome trim, grills, badging etcetera. This is a fairly expensive and labour-intensive technique so it's not generally used for cheap models or large production runs. Disadvantage is that the parts usually appear quite flat, so reproducing 3D items is generally done by casting the parts in metal or injection moulding plastics.
Plinth
A plastic square that holds most models apart from the very cheapest releases. Most plinths contain an identification of the model, some are finished in leather or carbon. Most are covered by a clear plastic cover and the models are usually screwed or clamped to the plinth.
Preorders
A model maker often announces the models they intend to make, even though licence negotiations are still ongoing. Retailers collect preorders from customers who intend to buy the model based on the quality of previous issues and who do not want to miss out on small-run issues. If the number of preorders is too low, the model maker might cancel production.
Pull-back
Some toy cars have a spring mechanism used to propel them. It is activated by pushing the car backward, then releasing it. Not usually found in collector's models.
Quality Control (QC)
Usually at the end of the production line, there's a section where models are inspected for manufacturing defects. Sometimes workers reject faulty castings during the production process.
Remaindering
To decrease the cost per item, publishers or manufacturers of partwork series often produce much larger amounts than required. These remaining models are then sold at extremely low prices (generally in simpler packaging and without the info brochure). Buyers of these cheap models frequently end up adding more models from the series or even completing the entire series. This generates more sales for the publisher as the remaining models will usually be sold at full price.
_MG_6356b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Resin
A plastic used to make castings. Known for its sharp and accurate contours. Moulds intended for resin are cheaper to make but wear out more quickly, so generally resin is used for smaller production runs. The higher-end makers usually choose resin because of its superior detail. Also popular for 1:43 model kits. Not generally suited for use on models with opening features and more prone to breaking up than zamac.
Scale
The ratio by which the original (1:1) was reduced to make the model. Popular scales are 1:18 (the car was reduced 18 times) or 1:43 (the car was reduced 43 times). In reality the model is not an exact reduction of every line, because the viewing perspective differs between real car and model. Any model maker carefully tweaks the final proportions to avoid the model appearing distorted. The popular scales are derived from classic model train scales.
Scratch building
Making a model or enhancing/modifying an existing model from raw materials, starting with photographs or blueprints. Requires lots of skill and experience.
Stance
The way the car sits on its wheels. A correct stance adds to the looks of the model, nobody likes a sports car that resembles an offroader. Too low and it looks like a customisation victim, which is not to everybody's taste either.
Stubs
Detail parts such as bumpers, grills and most notably, lights are often attached to the body shell by pushing a stub extending from the part through a hole in the body and either gluing or applying heat to affix the part. The advantage of this method is that it's easy for the assembly workers to locate the parts correctly and the parts rarely fall off. Disadvantage is quite noticeable unrealistic dark spots in especially light units. Apparently manufacturers have recently started to find workarounds to avoid this. The advantage is more lifelike headlights with actual depth.
IMG_1339b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Superdetailing
Adding fine detail to an existing model or while building a kit, sometimes by adding features hardly visible in the finished result.
Tampo printing
An image is applied to a rubber cushion which is then pressed to the painted model. This is repeated for every single colour. It's used as an alternative to decals for applying details to a model. Advantage of tampo printing is that it's less susceptible to damage and easier to apply quickly by a machine. The rubber conforms to the shape of the casting, making it possible to print around edges.
Test release
Generally made by a publisher to determine if a partwork is popular enough to warrant a full release. If the models remain unsold, the publisher cancels the partwork or limits the number of models in the partwork. Test models are generally released in a limited part of the world and in the event of success, the series is expanded to a larger area.
Transkit
A kit of parts made to transform a commonly available base model into a rare and hitherto unavailable variation or to improve a poorly-detailed model. Some transkits use entirely new bodywork.
IMG_0837 by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Vacform
A plastic shape formed in a negative mould by applying heat and extracting the air underneath the plastic shape so that it conforms to the mould. Often used for creating windows in resin models.
Weathering
Using several techniques and tools to make a model appear used, dirty and/or damaged instead of the standard pristine 'out of the packaging' look. Used to make it appear more lifelike, to recreate an actual car or to make it fit a diorama. Also popular for making a racing car look like the post-race version.
IMG_5290b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
White metal
A mixture of metals (antimony, tin, lead, zinc, bismuth and others) used to create models. White metal is softer than zamac and not as well-suited to recreate fine details. Generally used for 1:43 kits and limited production models. Some collectors prefer white metal for its substantial feel and solid appearance. The lower melting point makes white metal easier to cast than zamac, which makes it more popular for smaller firms with less advanced equipment.
_MG_5900b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Zamac
An alloy of zinc, magnesium, copper and aluminium traditionally used to cast metal scale models. Also known as Mazac. Relatively strong even in small parts and smooth which allows for sharp castings.
Zinc pest
Zamac deteriorating as a result of impurities in the alloy at the time of production. This can lead to the entire model desintegrating.
If anyone has corrections or terms to add, please let me know so I can amend this posting.
Back door special
A term used to describe the practice of selling surplus, often quality control rejected models at bargain prices over the internet or through non-traditional channels. These can be a good source for budget conscious collectors or those looking for a base model for modifying. Take care to inspect for damage and/or missing parts before purchase.
Bare metal foil (BMF)
Thin self adhesive metallic foil that can be stuck onto parts and cut to shape to give a realistic chrome, gold or metal finish.
Blackwash
Using thinned paint in a dark colour to fill deeper areas in a casting, such as wheels, an intake or a grill. Suggests more depth than there actually is, making the casting more realistic. Usually done by applying the paint and wiping away the excess so that paint remains only in the lower sections.
_MG_3944b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Casting
Term for what constitutes the body of the car or a separate part thereof, usually cast in an alloy of aluminium, copper and zinc using a mould called 'die'. Often used to distinguish between several models too: 'they are different castings'.
Codes
Production codes are used to denote the version of a model. A Code 1 model is as released by the company that made it. Code 2 stands for models altered by the factory for a commercial party, usually in limited quantities or by a commercial party with full consent of the original maker. Alterations generally involve paint, decals and/or extra parts. Code 3 stands for models altered by collectors or builders in very small quantities, often only one single example. This is quite popular when it comes to race and rally cars or commercial vehicles. The original maker did not consent to the production of these models.
Some people distinguish between models made by someone for a collector or by the collector for himself by denoting these as Code 3 respectively Code 4.
Dealer edition (DE)
A model made for the manufacturer of the real car and sold (or given to buyers of the real cars) by its dealerships as a commercial tool. Usually differs from general release versions by use of branded packaging and different, authentic paint colours.
_MG_7688b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Decal
A sticker containing decoration of the model, often used on racing cars to construct the livery. Most common is the waterslide decal, which is applied by putting the decal sheet in water and waiting for the decal to detach itself. When the water evaporates and the decal dries on the model it conforms to the curves of the model and attaches firmly. These decals are however prone to yellowing after exposure to UV and cracking or flaking as a result of ageing.
To aid decals in adhering to complex shapes, to protect them and to dissolve old decals for replacement, several specialist products can be obtained.
Diecast
A term for metal models cast in a negative form. See casting. Done by taking a mould from a master model which is then in turn filled with molten metal. Also used as a collective term for scale models: 'I collect diecast'. Models made in resin are referred to as 'resin cast'.
Diorama
A recreation of a realistic or imagined, sometimes historic background intended to add realism to the model(s). It ranges from a small section of road to a building, a race track or a scrapheap. Sometimes models are modified or weathered to fit the scene. Figurines are sometimes used to add more 'life'.
_MG_3291b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Flash
Extraneous metal on a casting that is the result of molten metal running in between parts of the mould where they do not fit together perfectly. This is trimmed off manually by assembly workers before the model is painted. Remaining flash is generally a sign of low quality, worn moulds or failed quality control.
Figurine
A scale representation of a person or animal, used to increase realism in dioramas or models. There is an ongoing discussion about including figurines in open racing cars. Figurines are usually hand-painted, which makes them relatively expensive in relation to car models.
_MG_5227b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
General release model
A version of a model available to the public through specialist (online) shops, also known als hobby edition. This term is used to distinguish from specialist versions, such as dealer editions or limited editions made as gifts for sponsors of a racing team.
Injection moulding
Making plastic parts for models such as bumpers and steering wheels is generally done by injection moulding. Liquified hot plastic is injected into a mould, left to set and then removed from the mould for cleaning off the sprue, which is the term used for extraneous moulding residue.
Kerbside/Curbside model
A term used to describe a model with usually little or no detail underneath or inside and no opening features, intended to sit in a display or diorama and not to be picked up and studied. Usually the outside is detailed to a high level.
Kit
A model that has to be constructed from separate parts. Usually cast in white metal or resin, sometimes comes pre-painted. Kits are often made to issue specialist models with a more limited appeal of the subject than what is required for ready-made models. The smaller amount of finishing required makes it possible to produce small runs while keeping the product affordable, amortizing investments over a smaller number of models. Photo-etched parts are sometimes used to achieve fine detail. There are many small cottage industry-type firms active in kit production and their products' quality and realism varies greatly. Generally quite hard to build for novices.
_MG_5895b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
_MG_6617b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Licence/License
Cars and their logos are protected by copyright. A car manufacturer sells licences to model makers so they can legally reproduce the copyrighted items. The cost and negotiation involved are frequent subjects of discussion among collectors as they prevent models from being issued, determine the quality of the product or put a premium on model prices. Ferrari in particular and their licencing tactics are aggravating to collectors of their models.
Licencing/Licensing fees
The amounts paid to car makers by model makers so that they can legally produce models. For models of racing or rally cars, this might include the sponsors' logos and even the names of the driver and co-drivers. If there's a substantial sum involved and the number of projected sales (usually determined from preorders) is too low, this will actually prevent a model from being produced.
Livery
The appearance of (usually) a competition car, with its sponsor logos and team colours. Also used for trucks, vans and buses.
IMG_0124b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Masking
Temporarily covering parts of the model to avoid these parts being painted, used to create multicolour paintwork or liveries.
Master
A model maker creates this prototype to make the mould or die used to cast the model from. Sometimes the model is created in a larger scale than the end product to facilitate easier crafting, and scaled down by a computer which uses a router to produce the definitive master, from which the mould is made.
MIB
Short for Mint In Box, a description often used for auction sites to describe the model being in as-new condition in its original packaging. The Germans often use OVP (Originalverpackung) to denote the original box.
Mould marks
Older or cheaply-made moulds generally fit together less than perfectly or show wear from intensive use. This results in mould marks on the casting, lines that show the join between mould sections or extraneous metal ('flash'). Removing these properly is skilled manual work and remaining mould marks generally denote a cheap product. More common in toys than collectors models.
_MG_6542b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
MSRP
Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price, also known as RRP (Recommended Retail Price). Often the models are sold to collectors at prices below MSRP and only buying direct from the manufacturer involves paying MSRP.
Packaging
Collectors models are usually mounted on a plinth or base, then covered by a protective clear cover. A cardboard sleeve or outer box usually provides details of the manufacturer or make, often in turn protected from wear by a clear foil sheet. Cheap models are packaged in boxes that contain more models (the retailer takes the model out at the time of sale) or in simple plastic bubbles that you have to destroy to extract the model.
_MG_8043b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Partwork (PW)
A series of themed models sold by a specialised publisher. These models are released every couple of weeks and are either available from newsagents' or by subscription straight from the publisher. They are usually accompanied by a descriptive brochure. Some PW models are simplified versions of general release models and some are eventually made into general releases.
IMG_5108b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
People's Republic of China (PRC)
Up until the 1990s, most models were produced by European or American companies and produced locally. 'Made in Hong Kong', the non-communist section of China, generally stood for cheap low quality toys. Outsourcing high-quality production to China was pioneered by the German firm of Minichamps, who proved that it was possible to produce very realistic models for incredibly low prices. The Chinese government was just establishing the country's role in the global economy and, aided by the low wages, several production and assembly facilities cropped up. Even though Chinese wages have gone up considerably in recent years, they are still quite low and the accumulated skills and machinery still make China the default location for production.
Some European firms still firmly believe in producing locally as a sales tool, but instead their high prices limit sales and development of new castings.
Photo etching (PE)
A thin sheet of metal is exposed to UV light through a negative film which partially takes away a photosensitive layer that covers the metal. The exposed sections are then etched away in an acid bath, leaving the sections covered by the film. This enables you to make very accurate reproductions of chrome trim, grills, badging etcetera. This is a fairly expensive and labour-intensive technique so it's not generally used for cheap models or large production runs. Disadvantage is that the parts usually appear quite flat, so reproducing 3D items is generally done by casting the parts in metal or injection moulding plastics.
Plinth
A plastic square that holds most models apart from the very cheapest releases. Most plinths contain an identification of the model, some are finished in leather or carbon. Most are covered by a clear plastic cover and the models are usually screwed or clamped to the plinth.
Preorders
A model maker often announces the models they intend to make, even though licence negotiations are still ongoing. Retailers collect preorders from customers who intend to buy the model based on the quality of previous issues and who do not want to miss out on small-run issues. If the number of preorders is too low, the model maker might cancel production.
Pull-back
Some toy cars have a spring mechanism used to propel them. It is activated by pushing the car backward, then releasing it. Not usually found in collector's models.
Quality Control (QC)
Usually at the end of the production line, there's a section where models are inspected for manufacturing defects. Sometimes workers reject faulty castings during the production process.
Remaindering
To decrease the cost per item, publishers or manufacturers of partwork series often produce much larger amounts than required. These remaining models are then sold at extremely low prices (generally in simpler packaging and without the info brochure). Buyers of these cheap models frequently end up adding more models from the series or even completing the entire series. This generates more sales for the publisher as the remaining models will usually be sold at full price.
_MG_6356b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Resin
A plastic used to make castings. Known for its sharp and accurate contours. Moulds intended for resin are cheaper to make but wear out more quickly, so generally resin is used for smaller production runs. The higher-end makers usually choose resin because of its superior detail. Also popular for 1:43 model kits. Not generally suited for use on models with opening features and more prone to breaking up than zamac.
Scale
The ratio by which the original (1:1) was reduced to make the model. Popular scales are 1:18 (the car was reduced 18 times) or 1:43 (the car was reduced 43 times). In reality the model is not an exact reduction of every line, because the viewing perspective differs between real car and model. Any model maker carefully tweaks the final proportions to avoid the model appearing distorted. The popular scales are derived from classic model train scales.
Scratch building
Making a model or enhancing/modifying an existing model from raw materials, starting with photographs or blueprints. Requires lots of skill and experience.
Stance
The way the car sits on its wheels. A correct stance adds to the looks of the model, nobody likes a sports car that resembles an offroader. Too low and it looks like a customisation victim, which is not to everybody's taste either.
Stubs
Detail parts such as bumpers, grills and most notably, lights are often attached to the body shell by pushing a stub extending from the part through a hole in the body and either gluing or applying heat to affix the part. The advantage of this method is that it's easy for the assembly workers to locate the parts correctly and the parts rarely fall off. Disadvantage is quite noticeable unrealistic dark spots in especially light units. Apparently manufacturers have recently started to find workarounds to avoid this. The advantage is more lifelike headlights with actual depth.
IMG_1339b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Superdetailing
Adding fine detail to an existing model or while building a kit, sometimes by adding features hardly visible in the finished result.
Tampo printing
An image is applied to a rubber cushion which is then pressed to the painted model. This is repeated for every single colour. It's used as an alternative to decals for applying details to a model. Advantage of tampo printing is that it's less susceptible to damage and easier to apply quickly by a machine. The rubber conforms to the shape of the casting, making it possible to print around edges.
Test release
Generally made by a publisher to determine if a partwork is popular enough to warrant a full release. If the models remain unsold, the publisher cancels the partwork or limits the number of models in the partwork. Test models are generally released in a limited part of the world and in the event of success, the series is expanded to a larger area.
Transkit
A kit of parts made to transform a commonly available base model into a rare and hitherto unavailable variation or to improve a poorly-detailed model. Some transkits use entirely new bodywork.
IMG_0837 by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Vacform
A plastic shape formed in a negative mould by applying heat and extracting the air underneath the plastic shape so that it conforms to the mould. Often used for creating windows in resin models.
Weathering
Using several techniques and tools to make a model appear used, dirty and/or damaged instead of the standard pristine 'out of the packaging' look. Used to make it appear more lifelike, to recreate an actual car or to make it fit a diorama. Also popular for making a racing car look like the post-race version.
IMG_5290b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
White metal
A mixture of metals (antimony, tin, lead, zinc, bismuth and others) used to create models. White metal is softer than zamac and not as well-suited to recreate fine details. Generally used for 1:43 kits and limited production models. Some collectors prefer white metal for its substantial feel and solid appearance. The lower melting point makes white metal easier to cast than zamac, which makes it more popular for smaller firms with less advanced equipment.
_MG_5900b by Tom Sfotoos, on Flickr
Zamac
An alloy of zinc, magnesium, copper and aluminium traditionally used to cast metal scale models. Also known as Mazac. Relatively strong even in small parts and smooth which allows for sharp castings.
Zinc pest
Zamac deteriorating as a result of impurities in the alloy at the time of production. This can lead to the entire model desintegrating.