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Post by Jean B. on Mar 14, 2024 6:41:34 GMT -5
One's completed, the next project starts right here & now: My collection included right from the start altogether eight Horch', and the order of building them followed the idea of small-to-big, early-to-late, simple( )-to-complicated. So the eighth and last of the line is the famous "Voll & Ruhrbeck" Horch, built in Berlin in 1937. Generally, not very much is known about this car, as the company of Voll & Ruhrbeck was entirely destroyed in WWII and so no records survived to tell something about the owner.
Fortunately this magnificent car still exists an was Pebble Beach Winner in 2009, perfectly restored but regrettably painted in silver-metallic, which does not contribute to the extensive use of brightwork at this car.
Voll & Ruhrbeck was a Berlin company, like Erdmann & Rossi, and did several breathtaking designs, the probably best-known beside this Horch was the Bugatti T57 of 1939, which was destroyed and is now recreated.
The Horch 853A with chassis # 853558 shared the fate of so many luxury cars of the 1930s, it happily survived WWII, but was in poor condition when required by the allied military forces. I tried to write a short story about the car:
These two photos were taken against the same background. “Roof up, roof down” was a common setting for factory photographs for documentation purposes (in the background: the wall of the Physikalisch-Technische Reichsanstalt Fraunhofer-/Marchstrasse [today the Physikalisch-Technische Bundesanstalt]). It could therefore be assumed that this is a Berlin photo series by Voll & Ruhrbeck themselves (then address: Fraunhoferstr. 18/19, Charlottenburg, so very close to the photo's place). The paint appears black, black top, black tires, light interior, presumably the then-popular (and expensive), almost white pork-skin.
Allied soldier (American or French?) in front of the “loot wagon”. Note the damage to the left forewing. However, all of the original tires appear to be (still) fitted here (same profile as rear tires). The rear wheel covers (“spats”) are no longer present or have been removed. Coachbuild.com gives the date “May 1945 in Austria”.
Apparently a post-war photo with the French military as the owner of the vehicle (the license plate shows the typical French "2"; the standard bears the flag of the "Free France" 1940 - 1945). The left front wheel is obviously a “spare” part; the rim appears painted in color and the tire has a white wall. The paint no longer appears black, rather “dark”, perhaps even metallic/fish silver? or simply military olive? and no damage to the left front wing. Was the car here “generally overhauled” for use by a French general (Jean de Lattre de Tassigny, not in the photo)?
Here are the occupation zones of Austria after the Second World War: The American and French zones border each other, perhaps the Horch was moved from the Salzburg area to the Tyrol area, or “swapped”, or, or or… Old cars were popular payment after the war - and the population's means of exchange for donations from the Allies. The GIs in particular were amazed and fascinated by the pre-war luxury vehicles, some of which seemed like fairy tales, and often took these vehicles with them to the USA as “souvenirs”, where they were sold, for example. Some were “consumed” as stock cars and hot rods, but on the other hand they were also classified as collectible shortly after the war, which is why a large proportion of the (few) surviving European pre-war cars reside in the USA today (another larger part was brought to the USSR, which is why their continued existence cannot be traced in practice, mostly they were crashed by vodka-drunken drivers against trees or concrete walls). Immediately after the war, the vehicles were often abandoned due to the death or expulsion of the owners and, above all, worthless because fuel and spare parts were not available, with the result that high-quality vehicles were often requisitioned as representational objects for the high-ranking Allied military.
The car appears to be in good condition here, although the age of this photo is difficult to estimate. The top is light-coloured; since the top was originally black and was certainly not replaced shortly after the war, it is probably in a later restored condition. The seats are apparently still light-coloured, but no dark (double) piping can be seen in the pre-war or immediate post-war photos. The two spare tires have different profiles, which may have technical reasons (the Polensky & Zöllner-Horch has practically the same spare wheel configuration in the original factory photos!), and the fully chromed surrounds are missing, as are the searchlights. The rear wheel covers are still missing. The double or triple garage most likely shows American post-war architecture from the 1960s, as Europeans did not own more than one car in previous decades . Note the unusual high ground clearance, which is completely different to the original condition of the car as shown above, where it almost seems to "slide" on the ground.
Much later it appeared in almost authentic condition (although with dark-red interior), and we do not know exactly why the next owner did another restoration, changing the paint to gun-metal silver and a matching grey hood and interior:
In my opinion this causes a big loss of "drama"..., sadly.
I grabbed one of the rare Plumbies' models (the very same as Western Models) for only a few thousand bucks ( ) to have a classic white-metal of this car. TinWizard announced a new white-metal version of this car much more than ten years ago, but then wrote that they a sort of being offended because some Chinese presented a new plastic version. Considering that the late resp. last new white-metals by TinWizard featured an amazing and never-awaitened quality in white-metal model-building, this Horch must had been a sensation in this category! Well, so I had to take what to get, and old Mr Richard Hutchins made what was possible back then in 1970s.
Generally, the model is much to "weak on the chest" (as we say in Germany, and which refers to men, not to women!), it's too short, to narrow, with a too-short wheelbase and too small wheels.
I love those tiny references to good old times: Signature with '76, plus "modified '78". Don't take me too serious, but I'd like to know how the first issue of this model must have looked like...
Everything too short and too small...
The ruler shows the model's wheelbase compared to the brass template of the correct length.
Too narrow...
...and the width of the front wings almost resembles an old Volkswagen...
A good side photo brought to 1/43 and some measurement will help creating new proportions at the model.
Difference between model and correct width of the front wings.
Trying to fix the rear axle to the chassis.
A rough sketch of the fenderline is transferred from the photo and printed onto clear foil. This allows a very first impression of what's to be done!
Do you see the original fenderline behind the foil?
Not better...
After only four days...
...at least the two axles found their right position!
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Post by Tom on Mar 14, 2024 8:07:40 GMT -5
Wow, an impressive task lies ahead for you! I'm sure you will create another stunner though.
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Post by DeadCanDanceR on Mar 14, 2024 10:20:57 GMT -5
Very interesting story behind this car! I’m sure that you’ll build a wonderful model, as usual!
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Post by oldirish33 on Mar 14, 2024 11:26:38 GMT -5
This looks like another project where you will certainly have your work cut out for you Jean. HowHowever, I know you will be able to work your magic and create another stunning example of master modeling. Looking forward to it!
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Post by Jean B. on Mar 24, 2024 12:19:41 GMT -5
Wow, an impressive task lies ahead for you! I'm sure you will create another stunner though. Let's hope so... Perhaps you've noticed that I meanwhile usually build all cars by a particular brand in one line, and then chronologically according their presentation year. So this Voll & Ruhrbeck is the last in my Horch line, and it is the most complicated one. The model is much too small, has a completely fantasized windshield and lacks the unbelievably shaped headlights Creating all this perhaps overstrains my abilities, but I promise, I will do my best!
Very interesting story behind this car! I’m sure that you’ll build a wonderful model, as usual! Beginning - at least - is not as terrible as expected, so cross your fingers!
This looks like another project where you will certainly have your work cut out for you Jean. HowHowever, I know you will be able to work your magic and create another stunning example of master modeling. Looking forward to it! ...and I do so, too! Some say this car is a nightmare, but in my opinion it's one of the most fascinating German cars of the late 1930s! All lines seem to be flowing around the car, it is baroque, but of great elegance. Voll & Ruhrbeck did not make many luxury cars, the only ones were this Horch, a Mercedes 540K and the famous Bugatti T57, and they are alle very different in style, but clearly extravagant.
Large p/e parts...
...and even larger ones! It was very difficult to fill the metal sheets, as I actually only need the fender templates, but for not wasting the remaining metal, I already designed doors and indoor panels. I hope that these parts will fit when their time is coming...
Browsing the www I found a formula for calculating the scope of an ellipse, and indeed: the part fits perfectly!
The most difficult work up to here was finding the centerline of the car! You know, we have three independent parts: upper body, lower body and chassis. All parts are crooked in any direction and they have no really determined position to be fixed to another. I spent a complete week trying and finding the centerline and then fixing the axles. This was also difficult because the rear axle is located in the chassis, the front axle is integrated in the lower body. Hard work, believe me!
I soldered the two tails together to have the part really stable.
The rear fenders are much too low, so the new template resp. fender-line was absolutely necessary.
Here we can see the difference in height.
And here's the difference in the front wings. I was very happy that I did not have to cut the body in two halves for extending the wheelbase, which I thought would be necessary. As the front wings are a sort of "open", I could stretch everything simply over the front-end.
Meanwhile I've added tons of putty to get a solid basis for shaping out the new lines. the paper template shows the future relieved panel. I need the lines to get an impression of how deep/round I can reduce the top-line of the wings.
With even more putty the car meanwhile looks like a block of marble... However, most important is the top-line and the smooth flank. 95% of the putty will be grinded off soon...
A first try to round the tail. Unfortunately the upper body is much too narrow compared to the wings, I just do not know how I am going to fix this...
Well, I've done things like this before, and I hope I'll be able to handle this once more...
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Post by Tom on Mar 24, 2024 12:25:09 GMT -5
Did you ever think that you'd get a hobby you'd need mathematics for? That's indeed a mammoth task ahead of you, but I'm sure you'll create another masterpiece.
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Post by Jean B. on Apr 1, 2024 11:24:58 GMT -5
Did you ever think that you'd get a hobby you'd need mathematics for? That's indeed a mammoth task ahead of you, but I'm sure you'll create another masterpiece. ...at least trying to I hope you all have had a happy Easter weekend, and here are some results of the past days: Some more p/e parts. Making the flank relieves, which also define the bottom line of the body. Looks terrible, I know, but at this point I simply need the "fix points" like axles, wheels, height, width, bottom line and so on. Making it neat & nice comes later... Good news for today is that all wheels can be properly mounted and the stance of the car is done! From now on... ...it can only get better!
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Post by Tom on Apr 1, 2024 13:11:52 GMT -5
The modelmaker who made the kit will be green with envy when he sees the result.
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Post by Jean B. on Apr 7, 2024 11:42:38 GMT -5
The modelmaker who made the kit will be green with envy when he sees the result. Well, perhaps... On the other hand: I really admire Mr Hutchins, who made most Western Models. I think his models had great charms and I try to imagine how this job must had been, back then in the 1970s, without www, without high-end photo books and so on. But everything has its time, and now it's time to make something new, something better, isn't it? It was a terrible job to find the centerline for all three main elements of this model, and to avoid loosing it I decided to make a really bond fixing solution using three brass wires, soldered to the lower body, and the chassis exactly drilled with three according holes. The underside is meanwhile finished, all parts honed, all four wheels rolling smoothely. What the hell ist that? Well: Now I have to build up the upper body, and the only fix point is the radiator grill. Everything else meanders anywhere around, and so I have to find a solution to have the p/e ground plate for the grille held in the exact position related to the lower body. I printed a template on cardboard showing the exact position in X, Y and Z axle, and so glued the plate to this template. Just a fun fact: The rear end fits almost exactly into my small amboss. Back to the grille: Height fits - of course - exactly to the desired measurement. Reverse side Next step is to fix the plate to the lower body, following the exact center line! Here we can see how much the front end got longer. It took quite a while to plan all necessary helps for finding the correct position. Perfect! Now the plate must be firmly fixed to the lower body, I use toothpicks. Looks quite sporty, but holds the plate in position and can be removed later. Now I can go on with building the upper body! Only some very few things to over-do The bottom side of the back seat also bears Richard Hutchins' signature, I really do not know what's better with this '78 version compared to the '76 version?! However, I make my own seat benches, and so the original one has to go. The complete model was too short, too high and too narrow, and so the upper body doesn't fit in any dimension... Making the upper body wider is rather simple: A sharp cut throuh bonnet and trunk... ...and we can adjust everything. Quite a lot missing! To strengthen the upper body, I solder the parts together. And once the tail is fixed, the bonnet can be cut into halves. Stay tuned!
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Post by Tom on Apr 7, 2024 12:13:18 GMT -5
As usual it's a matter of finding the car in there somewhere. You're doing an amazing job!
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Post by DeadCanDanceR on Apr 7, 2024 12:24:47 GMT -5
Amazing, as usual! Lego would be surprised and delighted to see the alternative uses for their blocks!
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Post by Jean B. on Apr 20, 2024 11:51:09 GMT -5
As usual it's a matter of finding the car in there somewhere. You're doing an amazing job! ...and this time the car is hidden very, very deeply into the bunch of metal and putty, believe me!
Amazing, as usual! Lego would be surprised and delighted to see the alternative uses for their blocks! Meanwhile I notice that more and more measurements of my models correspond with the standard measurements of Lego bricks But really, it's awesome: with Lego bricks you always have perfect 90° angles which makes aligning components very easy!
Another turn of making the two halves fit together.
Now the radiator template plate must be soldered to the upper body (remember: the plate was placed at the perfect position two weeks ago).
The supporting toothpicks are cut in two, and thus I get the perfect radiator position.
Here we can see the differences between the original kit and the correct measurements according to photos.
It took only seven or eight days to shape the baroque tail of this car To find the concurring lines meeting at the correct points is an unbelievable work! Furthermore the spare wheels had to be fit in.
Here's the two parts. I still don't know whether to keep the halves separated or to join them before building the complete car.
Only to get this "sweet point" between fender and trunk needed about two days (hard!) work!
This edge must be softened, but still stay visible.
Since I bought this kit about six or seven years ago, I've wondered how to make the "cornucopia" headlights! I had no idea until last weekend: A brush handle was cut off, put into my lathe and shaped to the appropriate length. Making a silicone mould, and then casting the part in white-metal.
Please never ask me how I bent this part! And this is not enough, the headlight must get an "S" shape...
One of the great lucky days in life!
And now those headlights must be fit into the front fenders...
Luckily there are enough photos of the original car to find out how everything must be placed.
The front skirting is extremely complex! There are lots of convex and concave lines, flowing and concurring in any direction. I need an hour per millimeter to find them anywhere in the putty.
But very, very slowly...
...I get an impression of how everything had been designed.
Once you have defined the "fix points", the rest is done easily
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Post by alex on Apr 20, 2024 12:49:17 GMT -5
The putty manufacturer should pay you for an endorsement. Excellent job!
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Post by Tom on Apr 20, 2024 12:53:47 GMT -5
Is it still a white metal model? Those headlights are pretty amazing, both the original design and your scale replicas!
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Post by DeadCanDanceR on Apr 20, 2024 17:36:29 GMT -5
Awesome work, as usual!
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