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Post by steviesx on Apr 4, 2024 9:41:33 GMT -5
Picked up a Spark Elise GT1 (to replace a cheaper Altaya version) and somehow whoever previously owned it has allowed it to get the point where the screws are welded into the base and the screw heads are knackered.
After checking online to see if it would cause any damage to the model and not seeing anything stating this, the only thing I could think of (short of trying to drill through the screw) is using WD40. This made no difference, beyond making a bit of an annoying mess to tidy up.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so, what did you do to get around it?
Leaving it on the base is not an option personally, as all models are displayed out of box and off the base, so I can't have an odd outlier as it would look stupid.
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oldirish33
Member
"All Jaguars run on Guinness!"
Posts: 3,331
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Post by oldirish33 on Apr 4, 2024 10:07:34 GMT -5
I've never had that problem with a Spark, but I have had screws round out on other models. I have used a pair of needle nose vise grips to get a grip of the screw head and back out. I would suggest that if you try this be judicious with the amount of pressure. Firm enough to break loose, but not too much so that you damage the base, or the base of the model. Good luck!
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Post by alex on Apr 4, 2024 16:21:57 GMT -5
There are very fine saw blades that fit into hobby knife handles. I'd notch a piece of card stock and slide it under the model and around the screw to protect the base and carefully saw the screws. |
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Post by dcast on Apr 4, 2024 16:56:36 GMT -5
If you have dremel or similar tool, you could try to cut sharp line to the messed up screw head, and try open it with wide flathead screwdriver?
Some screws indeed have been incredibly tight from the factory, but so far have managed to open them. Triangle head screws were the most difficult ones before I got the right tool bits to open them.
As the manufacturers have already tried the triangle heads, I wonder if at some point they'll put for example security / tamper torx screws in these models, the ones with pin in the middle, requiring the tool to have corresponding hole in it. Well I have those bits already, starting from size TR8... but of course now that they'll read this, they use something else, haha.
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Post by jager on Apr 5, 2024 6:28:27 GMT -5
The problem with Spark models is the screws are in recessed holes in the base, so its not that easy to grip the screws with a pair of pliers or cut a notch in the head. It's happened to me a couple of times that screw heads are so tight that the notches get worn and the screwdriver won't grip anymore. Surprisingly, what I've found sometimes works is jamming one of IXO's 3 side screwdrivers into the centre of the philip's heads screw, and if your lucky it can get enough grip to loosen the screw. Failing that, Alex's suggestion is probably the best, though being a modern prototype, there is very little space between the model and the baseplate to get a saw blade between them.  Failing that, I'd perhaps resort to breaking the base plate, as you can buy replacement Spark cases and bases on eBay. |
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Post by paulius43 on Apr 5, 2024 16:00:47 GMT -5
Failing that, I'd perhaps resort to breaking the base plate, as you can buy replacement Spark cases and bases on eBay. Instead of breaking I would recommend sawing into pieces, their bases (esp. older ones) were made of pressed sawdust or something like that? It is not plastic. |
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